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WE SHOULD HAVE DONE THIS YEARS AGO!!!
We mean the new furling system. But, if our budget would have permitted
this purchase in the old days, we now would not have an advanced type as we
own now: with free turn and many other secrets that experienced furling
people recognise immediately as important features,
but are probably not valued enough by us novices in furling land.
We were extremely lucky having only 15 kts of wind during the crossing from
Trinidad to Grenada, instead of the more usual 25 kts. The passage means 80
nm to windward in a confused
sea. And the stronger the wind, the more uncomfortable the trip. Anyway,
after a relatively pleasant sail with for the first time in our lives no
sail changes, we arrived on Grenada. But first we want to tell you more
about Trinidad and its beauty, because this was a little bit overlooked in
the previous story.
Trinidad is the main island of the republic of Trinidad & Tobago, 50
miles from north to south and 30 miles across the middle (though nearly
twice that at its northern and southern peninsula's). So with its 1.3 mio
inhabitants it is rather crowded. Trinidad's main activities are oil
industry and drugs trade. The drugs we saw with our own eyes in port,
because what else is carried by all those little fishing boats plying back and
forth; surely no fish. The oil industry and related products we didn't see
as well, as this is concentrated in the middle of the island and easy
to stay away from.
The climate is tropical but not similar to the climate in Surinam, as on
Trinidad they
have only one dry and one wet season each year. We now have the dry
season although it rained cats and dogs in the first week of our holiday,
which is correct according to our local informer as it is obviously a leap
year. The wind is also stronger then. That we didn't know that!
So not only the botanical garden in Port of
Spain is
pretty at the moment, but the whole island is lush green and
we wanted to see that through our own eyes. We
dared to go a second time by rush-bus to Port of Spain to catch another
bus to the northwestcoast. You can't visit Trinidad without
having tried Bake ’n Shark, Maracas Bay's speciality. But unfortunately
we just missed the bus so instead we had a tuna and lettuce sandwich on the
boat. |
The following day we tried again by worn-out rented car, which we
borrowed for one day from Peter, our tuna-fishing Swedish neighbour from Surinam.
We drove straight across the tropical rainforest where it rained as it
ought to in a rainforest, and continued on a winding coastal road past
splendid bays. Maracas Bay is a huge attraction for the locals and on
Sundays it is a real mad-house, but thank god it was a Saturday and
furthermore on arrival in Maracas Bay the clouds were not yet dissolved
so there were no people at all. But the Bake ’n Shark stalls were open
so this shark sandwich could not slip through our fingers. It is a kind
of deepfried pita bun; cut open and filled with fried shark, garlic,
coriander and an unknown brownish sauce, lettuce, tomato and cucumber and
thus we were ready for the second part of the ride. More desolate bays ,
another unknown tree , sleepy villages and 40 miles
of winding road through
the rainforest. Extremely pretty and not to be missed by anyone sailing
into Chaguaramas; all those sailors who claim that Trinidad is “nothing
much”, are crazy or short-sighted.
Grenada. We checked in at Prickly Bay and after P repaired a jammed
winch and JW adjusted the height of the rudder's quadrant, we moved one
bay further up to Hog Island. Last year we met Renée and Tom from Seattle
(Semper Fi) and they were waiting for us
there. They were excited
about our arrival and the oranges we brought from our own garden, and
they invited us to cold drinks and nice food and they provided us with
lots of useful information. This bay is much nicer than Prickly ,
which is filled with expensive villa’s. It is not on the route and it is
also not a place you call in at unplanned, as the approach is surrounded
by reefs. There are a few marker buoys but eyeballing is the most important
navigation instrument.
The shores seem to be undeveloped and completely green. There are some small
beaches where goats and sheep walk and if you are lucky you see wild
horses (so they say). Hog Island beach has an attractive hang-out where
you can lime. Until the big round-trip catamaran arrives.
Every other day it brings
thirty or so pink tourists who within minutes click several
gigabytes of snapshots. |
A climb to the top of Hog Island is disappointing as the
construction of a 5-stars resort is planned. On the principle: Down with
nature! bulldozers flattened out the site and poison was used generously to
kill
all the trees that are now still in the way, so later they can be cleared
easily. Obviously tourists prefer to sit in a neatly layed out garden
rather than among the trees and cactusses that inhabited Hog Island
originally.
The bay is crowded with regulars from all over the world: US, Canada,
Sweden, even an Icelander and our neighbours were from New-Zealand; we were
the only Dutch boat. Outwardly there was nothing doing around there, but
Americans are crazy about organised activities so every Sunday afternoon
Roger's Beach Bar has music and BBQ and on Wednesdays there is a “burger
nite” with steel pan music in the marina one bay up. The hamburgers and
fries were perfect but we hated the music (American oldies).
With Tom and Renée we attended “Fish Friday” in Gouyave on the westcoast; a
true attraction for the locals, so also for us. In many food stalls a
variety of fish is served. The locals chose mainly fried fish with a bun,
the passengers of the ten stories high cruiseship scrambled around the
lobster stalls.
It was a pity that Grenada's national dish “Oil down” was not on the menu.
This is a mixture of salt fish, beef, pork, smoked herring,
callaloo (kind of spinach), saffron, breadfruit and dumplings, simmered in
coconut milk until the oil comes to the surface.
We wanted to “test” our American friends and organised a film show on board,
playing the Dutch movie “Simon”. This movie is for American people pretty
controversial with its theme of euthanasia. The weight of it all is
relativated through a special kind of humour, in particularly ridiculing
homosexuality. Renée and Tom were surprised that active euthanasia – be it
under certain conditions - is allowed in Holland but their reaction
was very positive. So they passed the test, although of course we knew in
advance they are not as narrow minded as we believe Americans are (or may be
we are narrow minded when it comes to a view of Americans). To quote our
ex-American, Norwegian naturalised neighbour Mike in Las Palmas: “Don’t
think all Americans are irrational.”
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