Casablanca
Thanks to Humphrey Bogart, the name of Casablanca sounds like magic, but
we didn't like this city very much. Agressive atmosphere, lots of beggars
and madmen, pickpockets, street rows and last but not least a big quarrel in
the bus.
A pity, because Casablanca is a nice town with broad lanes, many terraces
in the shadow of huge palm trees, the biggest mosk outside of Arabia and a great soukh.
The marina is under construction, so the boat was berthed 25 km to the
north in Mohammedia. Here we had to do business with a harbour master who
came shopping daily. We gave him cigarettes, but the whisky was out of
stock, sorry.
Anti-terrorism
fee
We had to enter the commercial port of Jorf Lasfar instead of El Jadida
because of (at last) heavy winds. It was here that we had to pay the
"ISPS fee" i.e. 90 euro's, for costs that are made to prevent
terrorism in big ports! This fee is applicable to all boats, thus also to yachts. After
extensive negociations we only had to pay the harbour dues (5
euro's).
El
Jadida
A cosy harbour with very friendly people. We went by bike with Ahmed (the
gatekeeper) to the extremely crowded soukh, the medina, made an appointment at the
hairdresser's (his nephew) and went to the supermarket. |
The
name
of El Jadida means: the new town. But it is also a beautiful town. The Portuguese fortification is indeed
magnificent; a complete town with a cistern that has been decor in many
movies. PHOTO
1
When we were in El Jadida, the ramadan ended. Party time with lots of
food: sweets and couscous. Ahmed's mother cooked for us, and
it was very different (and much better) than any couscous that we tasted
before.
To Marrakesh by bus
“Take the train from Casablanca going south” (Marrakesh Express,
CS&N 1969). So
did the hippies 35
years ago, but we went by bus. Four hours to Marrakesh and four hours
back, not very
comfortable but definitely another great experience. Nice to see the inland country:
brown earth and lots of stones. PHOTO
2
“Colored cottons hang in the air, charming cobras in the square, striped
djellebas we can wear at home...” it's all still there. Marrakesh is
a Berber town, and you can tell that by the warm colours of yellow,
orange, red and indigo that you see everywhere PHOTO
3
.
The soukh is gigantic, like Harrod's but then everything on one level. PHOTO
7
We hired a licensed guide at the tourist office and he showed us the nice
spots. There are lots of interesting things to see, feel and taste, such
as PHOTO
4+5+6
gardens, palaces, beautiful
alleys
PHOTO
8
,
stench and noise. Traffic is formed by buses, cars,
bikes, motorbikes, pedestrians, handcarts and donkeys, so you'd better
watch out! |
Almost
stranded
The Oualidia Lagoon (such a beautiful name!) is located 45
miles south of El Jadida. According to the Imray pilot (ed. 2000) this is a great
spot to drop your anchor. This may have been true in 2000, but not
anymore. We entered the lagoon in calm weather at half tide, but
stranded!! The boat heeled 30 to 40 degrees! Where 4 to 5 meters water was
expected (LLWS) we found not more than 1.60 m. Fortunately the bow
turned just in time in the right direction, full speed and we got away
with it. No Blue
Lagoon experience, no paradise. Get out and keep out!
Safi
On to Safi, 30 miles to the south. We got some wind now so we could sail,
a small consolation. The big consolation was of course that the boat was not
damaged. We could have lost her easily!!
Safi is a commercial port, not cosy but the fishermen's quay is next to
it. Busy fish market, where we bought 1 kg of sardines for 1 euro. Marinate
them in course seasalt and grill them on the bbq... delicious.
Essouira
PHOTO
10+11
Busy fishing port but rather touristic (lots of Europeans). Nice pottery
and woodcarver's craftsmanship in the medina, as usual. Lots of fish on
the quay and almost for free.
The contrast between the busy port and the sometimes very boring moments
at sea (when there is no wind) is immense. PHOTO
12
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